Camels, turbans and 50 degree weather - Part 2

The first day of our safari was spent meandering through the desert (in 50 degree heat - thank goodness for my safari gear :) checking out a little village in the middle of nowhere, lounging under a tree for three hours (waiting for lunch and then digesting lunch - why don't I ever do this at home??), riding to an "oasis" (translation: a well with a trough) and then finally making camp around 6pm where after resting and stretching our sore muscles, drinking warm (but satisfying) Pepsi we rolled down the sand dunes and then watched the sun set and the dung beetles go about their business (they are massive!). Our guides cooked us curry with rice and roti for dinner, set up our bedding (lounge chair like bed platforms with blankets that I'm sure had never been washed) and then left us. We were alone in the desert (they even took the camels!). One of the guys on our tour had brought his guitar and he played random cover songs and sang until we fell asleep. Of course I was the last one to fall asleep and I lay there letting my imagination digest the fact that I was alone in the desert and thinking of all of the creepy/scary things out there that might want to eat me (thankfully we were off the ground and so safe from snakes/mice/dung beetles). I woke up around 6:30am, still in one piece and realized I was the first one up. I watched the sunrise over the dunes from my bed and thought of watching the sunrise on Hornby.

Our guides arrived and made breakfast and hot chai (so choked all chai here is made with milk!) and then we set off on another camel trek across more amazing sand dunes and it occurred to me that this is the most peaceful place I've been in India. Points for Jaisalmer. We spent another afternoon relaxing under a tree in the shade, were fed an awesome curry lunch and then shipped back to our hotel in the city. A perfect end to our time in India :)

Camels, turbans and 50 degree weather - Part 1

With a sole purpose of riding a camel in Jaisalmer, we immediately booked a two day one night camel safari in the desert upon arrival and then set off to get some gear. The next day, armed with our newly purchased long sleeved white safari shirts, scrub pants and colorful turbans we set off in the hotel Jeep into the desert. Around 11am we were dropped off in the middle of the desert, had our turbans tied properly (I vow to get it right by the end of this trip!) saddled up our camels, and set off.

Sunset #562??

Diet coke and a sunset from the Jaisalmer Fort :)

Sent from my iPhone

Pure talent

Flours/beans

Chillies in the Pink City

Breakfast of Champions

Aloo (Potatoe) Masala

My First Henna!

The movie we watched:

Really good! What I understood from it lol.

Just one corner of our shopping trip

Block printing

Mosaic inside Amber Fort

Inside the Amber Fort

Reflections: Pampering and sunsets

So we've been in Jaipur for three days now, we ship off tonight at 11:45pm on a train headed for Jaisalmer. Three days is the longest we've been in a place in India so far (except when we were sick in Varanasi). And it's also the first place I feel like we've really explored the city. We started with an afternoon of pampering (fully body massage, pedicure and eyebrow threading - yay, so needed!) and then went and watched sunset from monkey temple (not actually called that, it's just known for all of the monkeys around it) which had an amazing view of the city, Jaipur is massive! I don't think I've ever seen so many sunrises and sunsets as on this trip lol. Yesterday (our first full day) we hired a rickshaw driver to take us around for the day. We went to the Pink City, climbed up a tower to see a 360 of the city, checked out an observatory (it's a world heritage site? Wish I knew more about the stars, this was a little over my head), did a drive by of the Palace of the Winds (pretty but super small, the pictures make it look so much larger), visited some tombs (can't remember the name for the life of me but it was probably one of my favorite places in Jaipur - beautiful white marble temples and so peaceful!) then visited the Amber Fort. Initially we were thinking of riding elephants up to the fort (because you can) but when we got there and saw them I was horrified. They chain their legs and beat them so they move. They have open sores on their legs and backs from being beaten with the stick. I could barely look at them. Don't ride the elephants if you go!! Anyways, the fort was really cool. It's huge, has a beautiful view and tons of little tunnels everywhere. It was nice to be able to wander around and explore on my own. After the fort we checked out the water palace (exactly what it sounds like, a palace in a lake), and then did some shopping. We visited a guru (who told me that as soon as I stopped eating wheat and dairy I would be much healthier. Random!!) and then went to a Hindi movie at night. Today was shopping day two :)

It's Not Personal, Just Driving

You may remember my mentioning how nuts Vietnam was for driving...I take it back. Vietnam is tame. Driving in India is by far scarier. Yesterday was my first real driving experience in India (in the daytime) - We took a rickshaw to the bus and then a 3h bus ride to Allahabad to take the train - and I have to say, I had no idea traveling could be so stressful! There is no centre line here (at least in the minds of drivers). Our bus driver (we nicknamed him "Stone Cold" for his expressionless/no fear driving) would drive for minutes on end in the opposing lane, honking madly, forcing smaller oncoming vehicles to the side and then swerving at the very last second back into our lane when challenged by vehicles the same size or larger. If two cars so narrowly missed each other in Canada, the drivers would pull over and thank their lucky stars they just survived such a near death experience. In India, it's routine. If a vehicle wants to pass another, you drive up behind it and honk madly and repeatedly until they move over. If they don't move over, you pass them in the oncoming traffic lane. No hard feelings. Our driver tried to pass another, he was honking madly for some time but the vehicle didn't make room, eventually we passed it on the sidewalk side (I also wouldn't want to bike here, you are playing with your life biking along a road in India) and instead of getting mad at the guy for not moving (in Canada this would have warranted at least a glare, if not a "wtf" look or possible finger), there was no acknowledgment whatsoever! As if, no hard feelings, it's just driving. The driving madly up behind someone and honking repeatedly, just safety. India definitely is incredible.

Sent from my iPhone

View from our Rooftop Restaurant

Taj Mahal, No big deal :)

Da da dada... The Taj Mahal

We made it! (and were lucky enough to see it in the morning before the massive swell of tourists took over).

This place is even more beautiful than in photos: the white marble and the mosaic details are incredible, and combined with the gardens and the water fountains, this place made me happy just walking around it. And it smelled like fresh cut grass! Such a welcome smell in India!

I need more Malcolm Gladwell!

This book caught my eye in a train station in Thailand and I can't put it down it's so good. In it Malcolm Gladwell talks about how success isn't solely a product of individual perseverance and skill, but has as much to do with family upbringing, cultural background and when you were born (month and birth year - and no it's not hippy psychic stuff). So interesting! Now I need to find "The Tipping Point" and "Blink" :)

The Ganges From Our Rooftop Terrace

Our sunset tour guide

Our Ghat

Munshi Ghat. Our guesthouse is behind this one about a 2 minute walk. It's not really a guesthouse but a not for profit that allows people to stay in its rooms. It's really cool and has an clearly awesome location, free breakfast and lunch, free wifi, library, yoga in the mornings and a cafe an restaurant upstairs :) it's called Kautilya Society I believe?

The Ghats and the River Ganges

Just as beautiful and even more awe inspiring than I expected, the ghats along the Ganges are so pretty! There are so many of them (old, colorful and crumbly buildings) it stretches for miles. Each ghat has a different name and all of the addresses for buildings in behind are based on the ghat they are near. You can get rowed around at sunset for an hour for 150 rupees ($3).

A busy main street in Varanasi

Our neighbor

Cows here live wherever they want. They sit/stand/shit in the middle of the tiny alleyways and wander wherever they please. Looks like this one participated in Holi too :)

One of the amazing little alleyways

Laundry Day Varanasi

Train from Delhi to Varanasi

This is an aisle picture of our sleeper car. On the left are two bunks and on the right is our "compartment" which has one top bunk on either side and then a seat and backrest (on either side). You lift up the backrest from the bottom and connect it to some hanging chains and it becomes the middle bed.

The day trip was quite nice, though we were the only tourists on board (great for people watching) but at night we were the only women - it was a bit like being in a zoo. I was glad there was three of us. I had veggie bahrani? (rice) for 45 rupees and it was so good! I love that I can eat most things here :)

Birthday lunch

I believe this was an uthappam. So good! And the bread-like part is a papas I think, made of chick peas so I can eat it :) I have actually don't seem to have much trouble eating here. I seem to be able to eat most things, though I'm for sure avoiding dairy (not a fan of the un-refrigerated cheese and yogurt) and probably meat as well for this trip. Good thing they have lots of chick peas and lentils :)

Birthday Photo :)

27 Years Old and Pretty in Pink!

Lesson #1 and #2 of Holi: close your mouth and shut your eyes lol

True Story

So I lost my shoes yesterday (a day before I needed them in India), fully knowing I would but doing nothing about it because I was lazy, and partially hoping I would get lucky...

Yesterday, while waiting in line to check my bag for the flight from Hanoi to Bangkok, a girl I'd met on the bus from my hostel pointed down at my shoes sticking half hazardously out from a side pocket of my bag and stated "you should probably tie those down." to which I replied "they've been sitting like that for two months, I'm sure they'll be fine...." but as I watched them roll away down the conveyor belt, I knew fate had warned me but I was too lazy to listen. Sure enough, when I got off the plane and collected my bag, they were gone.

Lesson learned: listen to fate, even if you're too lazy, because you'll end up having to buy new shoes..

Sent from my iPhone

My newest read...

Started and finished in two days. So sad. It's about the Cambodian Genocide from the point of view of a little girl. Really good book, really eye opening, but very sad.

Soy Chai Tea Latte @ Bangkok Airport = :)

Best Pirate Experience: Halong Bay in the Fog

Yesterday I did the one day Halong Bay tour. Initially I was a little disappointed - It had been raining in Hanoi and didn't look like it would be much better in the bay. But it turned out to be the best weather! Sailing on a Chinese junk ship, drifting silently through the fog along with dozens of other wooden boats, watching the islands fade in and out of visibility was surreal! It was like being in Pirates of the Caribbean! Out in the middle of the islands we kayaked through the mist among floating houses in a little fishing village and then explored a massive cave. I got some amazing photos, though I didn't bring my iPhone so you all will have to wait until I get home to see them :)

On a flight to Bangkok now, off to India to meet Betty tomorrow!

Sent from my iPhone

My newest edition:

So, my other Lumix crapped out. Well I might have killed it, the lens got sand in it in Mui Ne. So after about a week of using my iPhone as a camera (good old iPhone :) I finally broke down and got a new point and shoot. I had done some research and was actually looking for the waterproof Lumix TS4, but wouldn't you know it, Asia's kinda crap for cameras. Well Hanoi anyhow. No brand but Samsung has international warranty and they have very few options (aren't they all made out here? How does that work??) So. I'm back with a cheap, $100 Lumix that I feel satisfied will take decent pictures for two more months after which I will sell it on Craigslist to make a couple bucks :) win win.

Misty day at the lake in Hanoi

Hoi Ann to Hanoi from the top bunk ctd...

Hoi Ann to Hanoi from the top bunk ctd..

Hoi Ann to Hanoi from the top bunk

Hoi Ann Waterfront

This morning I rented a bike and explored Hoi Ann. The town isn't very big so it didn't take long and the central part down by the water is so beautiful! I'm a sucker for waterfronts though. The buildings are very Spanish/colonial, colorful with pretty flowers and markets everywhere. A very enjoyable morning :)

Sunrise from my Sleeper Bus

Sleep? Not so much. Nice view? Definitely.

Goodbye Nah Trang. 6 hours was long enough.

I arrived in Nah Trang at 12:30pm (after the longest, slowest and windiest 4h bus ride from Dalat) and though the beach was pretty, I got ripped off twice in four hours and was not sorry to hop on the first night bus out of there.